Hank Shaw's interview
Interview by LydiaWe interviewed Hank Shaw!
Visit the blog: Hunter Angler Gardener Cook.
Hello Hank Shaw, so tell us...
What is your earliest food memory?
Hard to say, but a very strong early memory is of digging clams on Block Island, off Rhode Island. We'd eat so many raw clams there would be piles of shells in the back yard of the cottage we stayed at. At that tender age, I viewed clams as a vehicle for cocktail sauce. Now I just like a little squeeze of lemon.
When did you start your blog, and what were your reasons for starting a career in food?
I started Hunter Angler Gardener Cook in 2007 as a way to write about all the things related to food that I probably wouldn't ever be able to sell to a magazine. I was still a full-time political reporter at the time, so food writing was more of an avocation then. Writing about food kept me sane during some pretty crazy political times.
Did you grow up hunting, foraging and growing your own food, or did this lifestyle come later in life?
I did grow up foraging and fishing, but I didn't start hunting until I was 32 years old. My family loved to pick blueberries and dig clams from the beginning, and I always loved the idea of eating the wild plants all around me. Fishing is also in my blood. I've been a fish and seafood cook far longer than I have been a wild game cook. Not a lot of people know that.
You say you like to "walk a less-traveled path" when it comes to the ingredients you choose. What are some of your favorite unexpected ingredients to cook?
Acorn flour fer sher. Love it! I make my own and use this flour in virtually all my baked goods, dumplings and pastas. I also cook a lot with unusual oils and sweeteners - I find that you can tailor a dish to a certain place and culture by adjusting these ingredients. For example, if I were cooking in North Dakota, I'd use sunflower oil, maple syrup and rye or barley flour. Linking your food to its environment, both natural and human, is something I try to do every day.
Who are your culinary influences?
I read a lot, so I pick up tips and tricks from everywhere. I love the work of Paul Bertolli and Chris Cosentino in the Bay Area, Rene Redzepi in Denmark, Jesse Griffiths and Ned Elliott in Austin, Texas. John Currence, Sean Brock, Linton Hopkins and Chris Hastings in the South. So many great chefs out there, so many creative ideas to share!
Can you tell us about the two cookbooks you have written?
Sure. My first book, "Hunt, Gather, Cook," was intended as a primer to the wild world from a cook or an eater's perspective. It's an introduction to foraging, fishing and hunting, with techniques and recipes throughout. My second book, "Duck, Duck, Goose," is a drilldown on one aspect of what I do, which is cook ducks and geese. I hunt ducks all winter, and it's my dominant meat all through the cold months (wild salmon is my main food in summer). There hasn't been a good duck cookbook written in a long time, and duck is enjoying a renaissance these days, so I saw an opening. Both books, I am happy to say, have done well.
Along with food writing and catering you also teach classes on hunting and cooking. Do you have any upcoming classes?
I actually don't cater much anymore. I still do a few dinners to raise money for non-profits like the California Waterfowl Association and Slow Food, but that's about it. As for classes, I like to take people on plant ID walks to introduce people to foraging. I do a few of those classes every year. And in spring, with the low tides, I do a few clamming expeditions. Those are a ton of fun.
You also work on television appearing on shows like, "Bizarre Foods America,” Steve Rinella’s “Meateater” and Scott Leysath’s “The Sporting Chef.” Is television an avenue you would like to explore more?
Sure. I like being on other people's shows. It's only a day or two, and it's usually been fun - I just shot an episode with Mike Rowe for his new show on CNN last week, which was a blast. As for my own show, it would have to be the right fit. I am not going to jump up and down and be "extreme" for the cameras.
What are your goals for your blog? Where would you like to see it in the next year? Five years?
I've always wanted Hunter Angler Gardener Cook to be the top resource for recipes and techniques for using the wild foods of North America. It's a lot to take on, which gives me a pretty endless list of fun things to explore -- it's a big continent, with so much to experience and write about! I hope I'm just keepin' on keepin' on in five years. I love my job.
Thank you Hank Shaw for answering our questions and see you soon!
Published by Lydia - 09/08/2014
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